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Telegraph

The genteel Welsh seaside town with Michelin stars, award-winning pubs and proud locals

Just before sunrise, Penarth was strangely astir. Cloaked figures emerged from the darkness, coalescing at the water's edge. Born during lockdown, the Dawnstalkers Sea Swim Club – less a club, more a community open to all – meets here every morning, year-round. As the sun broke the horizon and I disrobed to take my own plunge, I spoke to Sarah-Jane from Lancashire. On the basis of seeing the Dawnstalkers on Instagram, she'd moved here; she's since become engaged to a fellow swimmer. Not every visitor will find love in Penarth, but it's easy to understand the more general appeal. This small farming and fishing village in the Vale of Glamorgan boomed in the 19th century thanks to the building of the docks, the arrival of the railway and the tourism marketeers, who branded it 'the Garden by the Sea'. Penarth is still a box-ticker, offering both coast and countryside plus a community feel with big-city benefits: Cardiff is just 12 minutes away by train. This makes it prime commuter territory, with some of the most expensive addresses in Wales. But while gentrification has priced some people out, it has helped make Penarth more resilient. 'Many towns are struggling,' one local told me, 'but Penarth has bucked the trend.' What's it really like? Penarth is by the sea – well, the silty surgings of the Bristol Channel. But it's not really a traditional seaside town. Yes, it has a Victorian pier. You can buy ice creams (try Fablas), promenade under bulb-strung lampposts and look across to the Somerset coast. But there are no arcades, no sandy beach. 'Penarth has never been about the bucket-and-spade brigade,' explained John Davies, editor of Penarth View. 'If you want candy floss and rock, go to Barry Island [eight miles west]. Penarth is more genteel.' I mooched around, starting by the sea, walking past the tiny but exotic Italian gardens and up through the Edwardian landscaping of Alexandra Park. It all looked extremely well-kept. 'There's real pride in Penarth,' explained Nia Hollins of the Vale of Glamorgan Council. 'The people who live here are making the choice to be involved.' Many are retired professionals, with time on their hands and skills to impart. But there's fresh blood too. Davies also runs the Milkshed, Penarth's first co-working space: 'Our studios are fully let for the next two years,' he said. 'People don't want to commute into Cardiff. They want to come and grow their businesses here.' One new business taking a punt is Silures restaurant, which recently opened at Holm House hotel. This 1920s sea-view mansion was formerly a boutique hotel visited by an array of celebs, from David Hasselhoff to Gary Lineker. That closed in 2024 and it's now a collection of self-catering suites, to which Silures will add 'high-quality food at accessible prices', not least 25 per cent off lobster on Thermidor Thursdays. What's not to like? Parking is a constant source of grumbling, largely because there's no town centre car park. However, there's plenty of free parking on-street and on the edge of town. I made use of the large free site at Cliff Parade, near the much-loved Wilmore's 1938 Cafe. It was well-placed for walking to Comeston Lakes Country Park and along the Coast Path to Lavernock Point, following the fossil-flecked Jurassic cliffs. The car park was also a pleasant mile's walk into the town centre, past the mansions of Victorian shipping tycoons. On that walk, I passed a film crew doing things with cables and hanging around trailers. A sign warned of flashing lights and imitation weapons: 'Please do not be alarmed'. This sort of thing happens frequently here. This set-up was for Casualty, but Penarth has appeared in all sorts. For instance, the Pier Pavilion was transformed into a 1950s Miami cinema for Dr Who and, most recently, the town appeared in BBC comedy-sleuth series Death Valley. While the glamour of being on telly appeals to some locals, it riles others who argue the disruption affects trade – not to mention what it does to the parking… Do this… Support the high street. Start at Grade II-listed Windsor Arcade, where a family-run greengrocer Windsor Fruit Stores of Penarth sells every type of fruit and veg, and Umpa Lumpa sells every type of retro sweet. At the front of the arcade is Griffin Books, UK Independent Bookshop of the Year 2023 and heart of the community: it's just expanded into the shop next door and runs free story time sessions, six book clubs and author events. I had a good browse, then sampled cheese with Jean-Marc at Fauvette and popped into Brød to eat fresh-baked knude and sit where Timothy Spall does in Death Valley. Eat this… Eat everything more like. Over the past decade, Penarth has developed something of a foodie reputation, both in terms of variety and accolades. Chef James Sommerin launched his intimate, 24-seat restaurant, Home, here in 2021; it was awarded a Michelin star six months later. The trendy Touring Club, co-owned by celebrity chef Bryn Williams won a Bib Gourmand in 2024 for its unfussy small plates. Then there's Keyif for top Turkish, Mint & Mustard for Keralan curry and The Pilot for good food and real ale – it's CAMRA's 2025 Pub of the Year for Wales. But don't do this… Don't expect a day of seaside frolics. Penarth regularly ranks high on 'best place to live in Wales' polls but is a little lacking for holidaymakers. There's limited accommodation and few 'attractions'. For instance, Turner House – opened in 1888 so businessman James Pyke Thompson could share his art collection – is a fine building, and remains a community art-space, but won't take long to visit. The restored Art Deco Pier Pavilion is handsome, but its offering is fairly limited: cinema (mostly classics), music sessions for kids. That said, a new cultural manager was appointed in 2024, and has big plans to ensure the space is well used and enjoyed. From a local Mel Griffin, bookseller: 'We're only three miles from Cardiff, but Penarth is very much a separate town with its own identity. In the years I've lived here [since 2001] there has been a lot of development, and the seafront has been reinvigorated with the renovation of the Pier Pavilion. 'In the town centre, shops and restaurants have come and gone but there's still a great mix of independent businesses – you can get pretty much everything you need without leaving Penarth.' From a tourist Nancy Evison from Kent was drawn to Penarth by seeing the Dawnstalkers swim club on Instagram. 'I first visited them in 2022 – the community welcomed me with such openness,' she said. 'I always head straight for the pier when I arrive. I've stayed at the Beachcliff Hotel many times and just love waking up with a view of the pier at dawn.' 'It's just a really friendly kind of place, with the loveliest people,' agreed Ruth McMorrow from Belfast. 'And such a pretty wee seafront – driving down the hill, it took my breath away. I'd also really recommend the coffee and cookies from Stol Coffee.'